271 km of community and solidarity

So it was more than great exercise or completing a big personal goal, my 271 km bike ride wasan experience of true community and solidarity. Everything I love about this culture comes from the Zambian concept of community and solidarity. What a great adventure! I rode from my village to our PC provincial house in two legs: each with a different PCV joining me. (30 May through 1 June) I did pack snacks and a tent, but could’ve managed with only my bike tools. I could’ve done without them even if it wasn’t for our not-from-anywhere-near-Zambia bikes. I want to highlight the three amazing examples of these two concepts from the trip.

So my neighbor in my village is the clinic nurse. Another clinic was a good day’s ride away, so my neighbor gave us her name. With just her name and some vegetables to share, we showed up at her house and asked to share nshima that night. We were tired and dirty and without asking received hot bath water and slept in her spare room – not our tiny tent. It’s like that in Zambia. Guests are always welcome and treated very well. That other day you’ll be able to host them.

The next day we struggled against a headwind and incline (occasional hills are MUCH preferable to steady inclines) only to reach our lunch destination to find no open restaurants at this road junction. There was no way we could bike on without a good meal so we shared nshima with a group of people transporting maize. Their truck had a breakdown during their multi-day journey so they were preparing nshima in the roadside shade while waiting for spare parts. There is a greater inter-connectedness across all of Africa; when you are in need you can always find help. When you are hungry you can always find nshima. The thought is that if the situation was reversed you would do the same. Zambians love to say, “Ah, yes. We are still together.” Zambians also love company and find offense if offered food is refused.
I just love that comfortable sense of a shared experience. and understanding what drives that sense of solidarity, and knowing that I’m welcome to sit on the ground and share lunch with people I’ve just met. One day I’ll be able to share my nshima too.

The third day (my longest) I was slowing and hit a point where I just wanted OFF MY BICYCLE. But at a stop to fill up my trusty nalgene, a vehicle belonging to an NGO stopped. Two lone white people on bikes are a curious sight. The fellow development worker invited us to stop for tea break at his organization’s center 20 km up the road. This invitation came at just the right time; we had a new goal to reach. After some nice conversation about our respective programs and a beverage (and apple!), I was able to push on and finish the last stretch. Of course I had to stop and offer you help (in the form of a motivational apple!) he said, because the next time it will be me who needs help.

Cruising down gorgeous hills and the sense of empowerment I got from finishing are unforgettable, and so is experiencing Zambian community at such a great level. I’m proud to live in a culture which has such a peaceful and contented sense of community and solidarity. I feel that this trip will be a defining moment of how I view my peace corps service. A metaphor of sorts – you get one great experience by driving quickly through, but a different richer perspective from slowing down and riding that same road.